Well just over a week ago I attempted to do the "option B" fix on my 3 amigos lights (HDC, ABS and TC staying on for no apparant reason). I got hold of the instructions for the ABS module fix from the Virgin Islands LandRover Club.
It's a rather long explaination, but well worth the read and very well documented with photos and descriptions.
Doing the "option B" fix is very straight forward and relatively simple.....unless you get the same problem as me and the bolts under the unit have already been "played" with and the heads stripped!
So, with a hand from good friend and fellow WA-AULROian (Jurgens, aka BST4X4XFA), we stripped out the ABS unit and did the job properly, replacing the alloy bolts for some new stainless steel replacements.
All wiring done, we needed to bleed the brakes. Not a huge job, but we simply ran out of time and left it half way through. Bugger!
During the week we had a call from another forumite, Andrew (aka LoveMyRangie), who bought along his Nanocom unit and we did a complete brake fluid flush using the "power bleed" function of the Nanocom. Those units are awesome if you have a TD5, and very useful for a V8, even though no where as comprehensive for the latter.
An alternative to using the Nanocom to power bleed was written up for me on the AULRO site, of which I shall copy here for future reference:
The old fashioned manual (two operators, one with the foot and one at the bleed nipple on each caliper) bleed works good enough to get you going again.The above is a combination of posts put together to give a more detailed explanation and procedure.
Note: this is best performed with some beverage tubing that is long enough to go into a glass jar. Keep the end of the tube covered by brake fluid in the jar so that you don't introduce air into the system when you lift up on the brake pedal. By using this method you don't need to close the nipple on the up stroke. Makes for faster bleeding.
The "power" bleed is when you removed the ABS relay and insert a jumper wire across the "contacts" to cause the ABS pump to run. Do this after you have completed the manual bleed.
The relay (R10) is located in the engine bay fuse box, drivers side. The R10 relay is the big black one closest to the windscreen. You remove the relay and you will see four holes where the relay was plugged in. Two will be for the relay coil and the other two, the ones you want, will be for the relay contacts.
To perform the power bleed the "foot" operator shorts out the two sockets (with any wire that will fit the hole) where the contacts are. This causes the ABS pump motor to run. The other operator opens the bleed nipple on each brake in turn as per the manual bleed procedure.
So the procedure is you would open a bleed nipple then short out the ABS pump contact. Let it run for about 60 seconds. Close the nipple and stop the pump. Repeat for the other three wheels.
You can also make up a 6m length of twin core wire, put a male spade lug on the ends at one end, and a toggle switch at the other end. Then you can switch the ABS pump on/off from under the vehicle at each wheel as you operate the bleed nipple.
So far, the dash lights have not appeared, so (hopefully) my problem is now cured. I'll keep monitorinig though and let you know if/when they come again (not my pic below!).
This site also now contains "live" info on my fuel consumption. See info on the right of this page, it's gives approx ltrs/100km based on fuelling information entered at the Fuelly site, and on the fly using their "dedicated for smartfone page".
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